Restaurant Review: A Firecracker of a Beef Rib and Other Surprises at Ferris

Nothing at Ferris makes heads swivel and nostrils twitch in fairly the identical manner, but when it’s a table-annexing feast you need, then the côte de boeuf with “all the fixings” is the dish for you.

Mr. Proechel has his personal notions about “fixings.” I’ve by no means regarded at a grilled beef rib and thought that what it actually wanted was a bowl of whipped buttermilk, however apparently he has, and I’ve to offer him credit score. Beating the buttermilk turns it into one thing between yogurt and whipped cream; mixing that with charred cipollini makes it into a notably luxurious onion dip. There’s additionally a paste of black garlic to function a super-concentrated steak sauce, and a shaved brussels sprout salad for aid from the richness. The solely false transfer right here was the sodden dumplings in broth, and they had been simple sufficient to disregard in all the thrill.

The hazard of placing a firecracker like that on the menu is that the half of the eating room that didn’t order it finally ends up staring glumly at the half that did. That was me, one night time, trying at the ladies at the nook desk who doted on their steak for an hour whereas I poked at my (completely all proper) cod with clams and hazelnuts.

When you might be prepared for one thing to drink with the côte de boeuf, you run into one other shock of this Swiss Army knife of a restaurant: the versatile wine checklist, overseen by Jenny Lakin. It’s not lengthy, and it attracts primarily from France and Italy, but it surely’s been rigorously drafted to incorporate relative values from costly areas and out-and-out values from much less traveled areas.

Ferris doesn’t knock itself out for the dessert course. The few sweets are easy and nice, although, from the yuzu-lemon frozen yogurt to a darkish chocolate mousse caught with chips of jasmine meringue.

Ms. Lakin’s checklist carries over into dessert territory with amari, absinthes, liqueurs, eaux-de-vie and different end-of-the-night pictures. Where all these bottles are saved I by no means found out.

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